OK, I have a 2001 Supercrew F150, stock wheels and tire size. Ever since the vehicle was new I thought it had poor brakes. I have installed EBC Yellow pads and slotted rotors on all four corner, which has helped.

My problem/concern is with dry pavement I can stand on the brakes and they do not lock up (I know I have ABS but it does not kick in either). When I have attempted to lock up the brakes I notice that the pedal travels a LOOOONG way. I feel that the pedal travel is excessive (I have bleed the brakes until I am blue in the face, I also replace the fluid every four years). So, I think I need to move more fluid to drop the pedal travel. I am strongly considering swapping the master cylinder out for one with a larger bore. The current master cylinder has a 1.0625" bore and a stroke of 1.41". A 2004 F150's master cylinder has a 1.125" bore and a stroke of 1.44". I have also considered a 2001 F250 master cylinder with a 1.375" bore and a stroke of 1.40". I understand that increasing the bore will increase pedal effort but it will also increase the volume of fluid moved per pedal displacement. Is there anyone that has accomplished this and/or anyone with experience increasing brake performance.

FYI, I will be installing braided stainless brake lines with this swap.

 

That really sounds like the master cylinder went bad and its bleeding by. One way to check, which doesn't always work, is to pump up the pedal while the engine is off. If it bleeds down, you have your problem. Or do the same with someone else pushing the pedal. Go around the truck and inspect all the flex lines. Look for any swelling or bulges. If 1 goes bad, it could affect the whole system(taking all the fluid to fill).

How big of tires are you running? My buddies 2000 with 35" tires and stock brakes could still get them to skip.

 

Hadn't really considered the MC failing - excellent point

Stock size tires, original, option rims - 17"

When you say pump the brakes, I am assuming you mean as you would have done before the advent of ABS. If I am pumping the brakes, why would the pedal bleed down? With the engine off, the brakes just act like non-vacuum assisted units. Wouldn't they behave just like they would with the engine on? Ie if they don't bleed down under normal conditions why would they with the engine off? Thanks for any insight.

 

You can feel it better when the engine is off. If the piston(s) are blown in the mc, it will bleed down and the pedal will hit the floor.

With stock tires, you should easily be able to stop with your face nearly in the wheel.

Does it pull to either side? Does it nose dive(no rear brakes)? Not dip the front at all(no front brakes)? Is the pedal really stiff(indicating the ABS might always be running)?

I said to check the rubber flex lines because when I went to get my '97, it got really soft all the sudden when I drove it. Both front flex hoses popped when I put it on the trailer. Only 100k miles.

Brakes are nothing to joke about. If something is ready to pop, your not going to stop real fast.

 

No pedal fad, no pulling, truck does dive (indicating good or at least functional front brakes), pedal is soft in my opinion but not falling to the floor boards. Under light braking the truck preforms just like I would expect. Its under hard braking where I feel it is deficient.

Planning on replacing flex hoses with braided stainless as part of my upgrades".

 

Man, sorry I didn't get to this sooner. Your ABS isn't working correctly. If you take your truck to a local auto parts, get the codes scanned. ABS codes will still show. Check your ABS fuse(s). It may also be the ABS relay.

 

Is it possible the yellow pads don't heat up enough under high breaking pressure to grab? Maybe heat them up a little then try to do a fast stop. Though long brake travel doesn't really point to the pads, but the ABS not engaging could be an indicator.

 

i read this post on another forum and it could work for you.