Front rotors. Go vented or normal replacement?
#1
Front rotors. Go vented or normal replacement?
I was figuring on going with cross drilled and slotted rotors to replace the stock ones on my 2006 5.4L since we were told we needed to replace them. Anyone think the stock replacements are better than going with vented?
It sure seems like vented is the way to go to get rid of heat from the brakes, but the stock ones have not given us any problems with warping since we don't tow and just drive normally (wife is heavy on the brakes and heavy on the gas).
Thoughts? I have never heard if vented rotors kill the pads faster or if the rotors themselves wear faster.
It sure seems like vented is the way to go to get rid of heat from the brakes, but the stock ones have not given us any problems with warping since we don't tow and just drive normally (wife is heavy on the brakes and heavy on the gas).
Thoughts? I have never heard if vented rotors kill the pads faster or if the rotors themselves wear faster.
#2
#3
First thing, all replacement discs for your truck should be vented. Venting referrs to vanes between the two disc surfaces. Drilled or slotted are a whole different thing. That being said it is a personal choice. If you have not seen any issues, quality replacement rotors will be fine. Keep in mind drilling and slotting, brings other problems, like accelerated pad wear. I have slotted rotors on my Expd, and like them, but pads don't last as long.
#4
Glen, you are right on the venting, I forgot about that.
Interesting. So far, my only experience with slotted and cross-drilled is what I have on my Toyota Avalon. When the car started getting lots of shaking when applying the brakes at "only" 80k, I decided to get something that would breathe better. I now have 180k on the car and have replaced the pads once since then, which doesn't seem out of the ordinary to me.
Interesting. So far, my only experience with slotted and cross-drilled is what I have on my Toyota Avalon. When the car started getting lots of shaking when applying the brakes at "only" 80k, I decided to get something that would breathe better. I now have 180k on the car and have replaced the pads once since then, which doesn't seem out of the ordinary to me.
#5
#6
O.K., checking with the O'Reilly web site and the Wagner front rotors are $175 each and the Brake Best Select brand are $85 each. Huge difference! Of course, Motorcraft are $320 each.
Pads are $50 a set front or rear for the Wagner ThermoQuiet semi-metalics and the spindle nut is $20 each.
Pads are $50 a set front or rear for the Wagner ThermoQuiet semi-metalics and the spindle nut is $20 each.
#7
Apparently, you have a 4x2. Have you considered ordering the Centric hubs and converting to the 4x4 rotors? I may do that at some point. I had a bearing failure at 41,000 on one original rotor, replace ***** fronts with the expensive Raybestos rotors. Had another bearing failure at about 60,000 miles on one of them and replaced that one with the $80 one. I have about 20,000 on it and it is good so far.
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Jim
Jim
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#8
I am looking at the Centric hub kit and it makes sense to do it. $145 each for the kit (comes with the rotor, hub assy and nut) with free shipping depending on who you buy it from. Vs. $84 for the rotor, $20 for the nut.
Throw in another $50 for the pads and you are done and next time, it's a simple $50 rotor and you don't need to mess with the 300 ft-lb torque of the nut?
Throw in another $50 for the pads and you are done and next time, it's a simple $50 rotor and you don't need to mess with the 300 ft-lb torque of the nut?
#9
I am looking at the Centric hub kit and it makes sense to do it. $145 each for the kit (comes with the rotor, hub assy and nut) with free shipping depending on who you buy it from. Vs. $84 for the rotor, $20 for the nut.
Throw in another $50 for the pads and you are done and next time, it's a simple $50 rotor and you don't need to mess with the 300 ft-lb torque of the nut?
Throw in another $50 for the pads and you are done and next time, it's a simple $50 rotor and you don't need to mess with the 300 ft-lb torque of the nut?
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Jim
Jim