Any ideas? - Brake job help
#1
Any ideas? - Brake job help
Hey guys
Ok so I did a from brake job on my 2004 (nbs) 2wd with a guy I have known at work for a few years. He has gone to school and taken some courses on auto mechanics and is quite knowledgeable, esp for jobs like this. No master mechanic though.
Well I used Raybestos rotors and Wagner TQ pads. The passenger side caliper was toast as I figured so I bought a reman. one from Advance and we got everything buttoned up. We bled the passenger side and went for a test drive. It stopped great, but then the ABS light kicked on. Braking was/is excellent though. So then we bled both sides and this time there was a slight pulse for 3-5 brake stops but after that ABS light kicked on but the braking was awesome. Tried again to bleed the system, same deal. Then used Brakleen on the sensors, so change although the pulsing went away faster and then abs light kicked on. Finally had to call it a day and here we are. I think I'm gonna call Ford and have an appointment set up. The braking is leaps ahead of what it was. Do you think the sensors are just bad? I had checked a few threads on here and that seemed to happen a decent amount of time to people after a brake job, esp as the trucks age. The ABS light stays on, but again no pulsing after those first few times, just great braking
Ok so I did a from brake job on my 2004 (nbs) 2wd with a guy I have known at work for a few years. He has gone to school and taken some courses on auto mechanics and is quite knowledgeable, esp for jobs like this. No master mechanic though.
Well I used Raybestos rotors and Wagner TQ pads. The passenger side caliper was toast as I figured so I bought a reman. one from Advance and we got everything buttoned up. We bled the passenger side and went for a test drive. It stopped great, but then the ABS light kicked on. Braking was/is excellent though. So then we bled both sides and this time there was a slight pulse for 3-5 brake stops but after that ABS light kicked on but the braking was awesome. Tried again to bleed the system, same deal. Then used Brakleen on the sensors, so change although the pulsing went away faster and then abs light kicked on. Finally had to call it a day and here we are. I think I'm gonna call Ford and have an appointment set up. The braking is leaps ahead of what it was. Do you think the sensors are just bad? I had checked a few threads on here and that seemed to happen a decent amount of time to people after a brake job, esp as the trucks age. The ABS light stays on, but again no pulsing after those first few times, just great braking
#2
#3
That's very possible Will, I found this post and it is THE EXACT SAME ISSUE. The original post in this thread. Exact
https://www.f150online.com/forums/wh...need-help.html
OK, replaced front rotors and pads. Also replaced rear pads. Went for a test drive. It sounds like a grinding and bumping, pulsing in the pedal, kind of from the front driver side. After about 3 to 5 good stops, the ABS light comes on but then the noise and all stops. After the light comes on the brakes work like a new truck. If I shut the truck down it restarts this series of garbage; bad breaking until the ABS light comes on and then the brakes work great. I tried to bleed all 4 two different times. Took the tires back off and checked; everything looks fine. What could this be guys? I plan to drive to work tomorrow. Please give me some thoughts. Thanks!!!
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I always compare the sensor rings on the inside of the rotor to make sure they look the same, same position, tooth count, diameter etc. I wouldnt be surprised if you got a defective rotor without a sensor ring and put it on without paying attention.
you should bleed all corners not just the RF after you get all the air out of the RF
you should bleed all corners not just the RF after you get all the air out of the RF
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I always compare the sensor rings on the inside of the rotor to make sure they look the same, same position, tooth count, diameter etc. I wouldnt be surprised if you got a defective rotor without a sensor ring and put it on without paying attention.
you should bleed all corners not just the RF after you get all the air out of the RF
you should bleed all corners not just the RF after you get all the air out of the RF
The teeth count or gap was off... last time I do it other than the dealer. So far, every time has cost me more. Until I am set up to do it with another vehicle, dealer for stuff like this. $425 (replace rotor and I'm pissed)
Also my entire e-brake assembly needs to be replaced... the axle needs to come off to do the job right he said. With new rear brakes - around 1k. That I gotta save for
#11
Why the axle?
Truckguy24, Why does the axle need to come off for the rear E-Brake replacement??? Nothing on the system is tied into the axle. Did it in an hour for $40.
I just did my 2004 - Check out the write-up with pics-
https://www.f150online.com/forums/wh...04-w-pics.html
I agree with Blue20004X4 and you should replace calipers in pairs.
I just did my 2004 - Check out the write-up with pics-
https://www.f150online.com/forums/wh...04-w-pics.html
I agree with Blue20004X4 and you should replace calipers in pairs.
#13
Pat, you're good
The teeth count or gap was off... last time I do it other than the dealer. So far, every time has cost me more. Until I am set up to do it with another vehicle, dealer for stuff like this. $425 (replace rotor and I'm pissed)
Also my entire e-brake assembly needs to be replaced... the axle needs to come off to do the job right he said. With new rear brakes - around 1k. That I gotta save for
The teeth count or gap was off... last time I do it other than the dealer. So far, every time has cost me more. Until I am set up to do it with another vehicle, dealer for stuff like this. $425 (replace rotor and I'm pissed)
Also my entire e-brake assembly needs to be replaced... the axle needs to come off to do the job right he said. With new rear brakes - around 1k. That I gotta save for
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Jim
Jim
#14