A/T or M/T? Best one?

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Old 03-04-2013, 09:38 PM
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A/T or M/T? Best one?

So I'm going to level my truck with a 2 inch level. I've got an '07 Regular cab STX 2wd. V6 baby. Should I get an A/T or M/T? Most of my driving is city so I was thinking A/T but I can't find an A/T with the aggressive looks of an M/T. I plan an actually using my truck off road and going with one my friends who has a Raptor I don't want anything bigger than 33 inches. Would an M/T be a bad idea? I want something I can count on when I go offroad and I don't feel like I could count on an A/T all that well. I also have stock wheels as of now but plan on buying aftermarket either 16 or 17 inch wheels. Any advice or input is welcome. Pictures would be great. Thanks.
 
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:50 PM
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If you want the looks of an m/t, then get an m/t.
I absolutely LOVE my Yokohama geolandar m/T's. I'm on my second set.
 
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:09 PM
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there was a thread like this a few weeks back, guy in your exact same situation, and he went with the AT and regretted it. I run the toyo MT. Quiet on the highway and you can get 40,000 out of a set easy. Nitto trail grapps are another great choice. my mom runs bfg AT on her truck and they do just fine in the snow/sand/dirt. sister runs toyo AT on her truck and they also do great. nitto terra grapp is also another great AT. if you can afford the higher price of the MT and the decreased gas millage, go with the MT.
 
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:51 AM
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Seems to me you answered all your own questions in your original post!

-want the looks of an MT
-want the off road assurance of an MT
 
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:17 AM
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Ive had BFG A/T's (275/70 which is a 33" tire) and I loved them. They weren't so loud, had so kick *** pulling in mud, and you WILL get 40k-47k miles out of them even 50k. I upgraded to 22" Fuel Offroad rims with 33x12.50 Toyo M/T's and just let me tell you, they're not loud at all, they got some serious kick a** pull in mud and the looks of them is just aggressive. The milage on them is incredible. My brother had them on his f250 and got 44k miles out of them. If it was me, I go with the Toyo M/T. Now if you were willing to spend the money, the BFG KM2 is a bad*** M/T to but they are pricey but worth the money. Now the Nitto Trial Grappler is a good tire but won't last as long as a BFG or Toyo, You may get 25-30k out of them. Pretty much, in your situation, I would go with the Toyo M/T. Either 295/65 with is almost a 35, or since you want a 33, get a 33x12.50. Hope this helps you with your decision!
 
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:42 AM
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Definitely go with a M/T. You will not regret it. I put 33" Mickey Thompson MTZ tires on my truck and absolutely love them. My dad has 33" BFG Mud Terrain KM2 tires on his F-250 and they are great tires as well. Both have been outstanding at what they have been put through.
 
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Old 03-05-2013, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mch0146
Now the Nitto Trial Grappler is a good tire but won't last as long as a BFG or Toyo, You may get 25-30k out of them. Pretty much, in your situation, I would go with the Toyo M/T. Either 295/65 with is almost a 35, or since you want a 33, get a 33x12.50. Hope this helps you with your decision!
Curious as to where you came about this information. I see people all the time commenting on how the Nitto Tires don't last. I'm not disagreeing with the quality of the other tires you mentioned, but I honestly feel the Nittos are pretty much the best value out there. In the A/T market, the Terras are a great tire. I had a set and was at 56,000 miles when I replaced them and they still had plenty of tread left, just had gotten old (I'm not exaggerating on this. I had literally begged Discount Tire to give me a reason to replace them and they kept saying, "nope, tires look good"). And in the M/T the Trails are a phenomenal tire and less expensive than the Toyo's. I've had a crush on the Toyo's forever and haven't been able to justify the price. I'm on my second set of Trails and love them. The first set was on a truck that I sold. The tires had around 20k on them when I sold and no noticeable wear. I still talk to the guy who bought it from me and he's put around 5k on them and said they still easily have 50% tread left. The ones I'm driving on now are still too new to be relevant, but I expect to get 45k out of them minimum. And with them being made by Toyo (the lug shape is a bit different, but its basically just a mirror image of the tread pattern on the Toyo's), I wouldn't expect them to be too far off.

To the OP, I don't think A/T's are even in the conversation for you. You clearly want the M/T and will use them, go that way, you'll regret any other decision! And also, the Toyo M/T and the Nitto Trail have been rated as the quietest mud terrain tires out there, with the Nitto being even a touch quieter (no personal experience with that comparison but they have been out long enough that you're seeing some guys who had owned Toyo's switch to the Nittos and offer their perspective). I feel since you do a lot of city driving, thats a relevant point. Good luck!
 

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Old 03-05-2013, 10:36 PM
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Alright so a it looks like m/t's it will be. From what you guys are telling me Toyo's are the best. Of course I'd like to sell my current tires. Both Kelly Safari ATR's. Rear have about 8k on them and the front about 1k maybe. Got the rear with the truck and replaced the front back in mid-January. At $215 a piece I was thinking around $800 for all of them on Craigslist. I wouldn't mind shelling out $100 bucks for the Toyo's. You think $800 is a fair price for the Kelly's? And how much of a decrease in mpg would I see with the level and tires? 1 or 2? I might buy a tuner later on. And would it be a good idea to buy wheels with the tires? I can get somebody to mount the tires for free or cheap so that isn't a problem. Owns a body shop.
 
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:42 PM
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My birthday is also coming up and I want something for my truck. Should I sell my tires and get my parents to spot me the rest or get something for performance? I'm 95% towards performance but just want to see what ya'll think.
 
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryan_James
And how much of a decrease in mpg would I see with the level and tires? 1 or 2? I might buy a tuner later on. And would it be a good idea to buy wheels with the tires? I can get somebody to mount the tires for free or cheap so that isn't a problem. Owns a body shop.
You will see about a 1 or 2 mpg decrease...maybe a tiny bit more, depending on how you drive. If I were you, I would get the tuner with your tires otherwise your speedometer will be off and you'll have to shell out around $100 to have your dealership recalibrate it for the bigger tires. Why not just put that money towards a tuner where you will get many more gains other than just a correct speedometer reading? Especially if you plan on getting one eventually anyways.
As far as wheels go, you might as well just shell out the money now to get them...as far as it being a "good idea" is your call. It would obviously be easier to get them with your tires so you can get them mounted, balanced, have the alignment done, etc. all at the same time just so you get it over with - but in the end, that one is your call.
 
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Zander10893
You will see about a 1 or 2 mpg decrease...maybe a tiny bit more, depending on how you drive. If I were you, I would get the tuner with your tires otherwise your speedometer will be off and you'll have to shell out around $100 to have your dealership recalibrate it for the bigger tires. Why not just put that money towards a tuner where you will get many more gains other than just a correct speedometer reading? Especially if you plan on getting one eventually anyways.
As far as wheels go, you might as well just shell out the money now to get them...as far as it being a "good idea" is your call. It would obviously be easier to get them with your tires so you can get them mounted, balanced, have the alignment done, etc. all at the same time just so you get it over with - but in the end, that one is your call.
Agree. And with the wheels, if you think you're going to get them eventually, I would get them at the same time as the tires. That way, you can get the wheel size you want and make it a package. If you get tires first, you have to get a size that fits your current wheel, then when you're ready for wheels, you are bound by the size that fits inside your tire. So if its an inevitability and you think you might want a size other than your current, I'd do it now. And the tuner for sure.
 
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:59 PM
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Alright so the tuner is sounded better and better by the minute. Time to go over to the V6 forum and find the best one.

Some body please explain to me wheels!! I don't understand the offset, backspacing, etc. I know 6 x whatever is for the lugs but thats it.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...diameter/17-in

These are the style wheels I was looking at. I just need someone to explain what all these measurements are in the side bar. And this is Wheels for Dummies here so nothing fancy please.
 
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:18 PM
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offset and backspacing are two ways of talking about the same thing. if you have a 0 offset (which is fairly aggressive) the spokes of the wheel/where the wheel meets the hub is in the exact center of the wheel as far as inside-outside goes. with a high offset (like +45) the spokes move away from the vehicle and are towards the outside of the rim. with a low offset (like -25) the spokes move towards the vehicle and the inside of the rim. rims with lots of "dish" have low offsets which pushes the wheel out and makes it stick outside the fender. most stock wheels have high offsets in the +45 range. backspacing is how much space there is from the inside of the wheel to where the spokes are/where it bolts up. essentially the same thing, just talking about it differently

http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

play around with that and it will give you a better idea of what im saying
 
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jdeacon
offset and backspacing are two ways of talking about the same thing. if you have a 0 offset (which is fairly aggressive) the spokes of the wheel/where the wheel meets the hub is in the exact center of the wheel as far as inside-outside goes. with a high offset (like +45) the spokes move away from the vehicle and are towards the outside of the rim. with a low offset (like -25) the spokes move towards the vehicle and the inside of the rim. rims with lots of "dish" have low offsets which pushes the wheel out and makes it stick outside the fender. most stock wheels have high offsets in the +45 range. backspacing is how much space there is from the inside of the wheel to where the spokes are/where it bolts up. essentially the same thing, just talking about it differently

http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

play around with that and it will give you a better idea of what im saying
You the man...
 
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Old 03-08-2013, 12:05 AM
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haha just doin what i can
 


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