A/T or M/T? Best one?
#1
A/T or M/T? Best one?
So I'm going to level my truck with a 2 inch level. I've got an '07 Regular cab STX 2wd. V6 baby. Should I get an A/T or M/T? Most of my driving is city so I was thinking A/T but I can't find an A/T with the aggressive looks of an M/T. I plan an actually using my truck off road and going with one my friends who has a Raptor I don't want anything bigger than 33 inches. Would an M/T be a bad idea? I want something I can count on when I go offroad and I don't feel like I could count on an A/T all that well. I also have stock wheels as of now but plan on buying aftermarket either 16 or 17 inch wheels. Any advice or input is welcome. Pictures would be great. Thanks.
#3
there was a thread like this a few weeks back, guy in your exact same situation, and he went with the AT and regretted it. I run the toyo MT. Quiet on the highway and you can get 40,000 out of a set easy. Nitto trail grapps are another great choice. my mom runs bfg AT on her truck and they do just fine in the snow/sand/dirt. sister runs toyo AT on her truck and they also do great. nitto terra grapp is also another great AT. if you can afford the higher price of the MT and the decreased gas millage, go with the MT.
#5
Ive had BFG A/T's (275/70 which is a 33" tire) and I loved them. They weren't so loud, had so kick *** pulling in mud, and you WILL get 40k-47k miles out of them even 50k. I upgraded to 22" Fuel Offroad rims with 33x12.50 Toyo M/T's and just let me tell you, they're not loud at all, they got some serious kick a** pull in mud and the looks of them is just aggressive. The milage on them is incredible. My brother had them on his f250 and got 44k miles out of them. If it was me, I go with the Toyo M/T. Now if you were willing to spend the money, the BFG KM2 is a bad*** M/T to but they are pricey but worth the money. Now the Nitto Trial Grappler is a good tire but won't last as long as a BFG or Toyo, You may get 25-30k out of them. Pretty much, in your situation, I would go with the Toyo M/T. Either 295/65 with is almost a 35, or since you want a 33, get a 33x12.50. Hope this helps you with your decision!
#6
#7
Now the Nitto Trial Grappler is a good tire but won't last as long as a BFG or Toyo, You may get 25-30k out of them. Pretty much, in your situation, I would go with the Toyo M/T. Either 295/65 with is almost a 35, or since you want a 33, get a 33x12.50. Hope this helps you with your decision!
To the OP, I don't think A/T's are even in the conversation for you. You clearly want the M/T and will use them, go that way, you'll regret any other decision! And also, the Toyo M/T and the Nitto Trail have been rated as the quietest mud terrain tires out there, with the Nitto being even a touch quieter (no personal experience with that comparison but they have been out long enough that you're seeing some guys who had owned Toyo's switch to the Nittos and offer their perspective). I feel since you do a lot of city driving, thats a relevant point. Good luck!
Last edited by russ10screw; 03-05-2013 at 02:29 PM.
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#8
Alright so a it looks like m/t's it will be. From what you guys are telling me Toyo's are the best. Of course I'd like to sell my current tires. Both Kelly Safari ATR's. Rear have about 8k on them and the front about 1k maybe. Got the rear with the truck and replaced the front back in mid-January. At $215 a piece I was thinking around $800 for all of them on Craigslist. I wouldn't mind shelling out $100 bucks for the Toyo's. You think $800 is a fair price for the Kelly's? And how much of a decrease in mpg would I see with the level and tires? 1 or 2? I might buy a tuner later on. And would it be a good idea to buy wheels with the tires? I can get somebody to mount the tires for free or cheap so that isn't a problem. Owns a body shop.
#9
#10
As far as wheels go, you might as well just shell out the money now to get them...as far as it being a "good idea" is your call. It would obviously be easier to get them with your tires so you can get them mounted, balanced, have the alignment done, etc. all at the same time just so you get it over with - but in the end, that one is your call.
#11
You will see about a 1 or 2 mpg decrease...maybe a tiny bit more, depending on how you drive. If I were you, I would get the tuner with your tires otherwise your speedometer will be off and you'll have to shell out around $100 to have your dealership recalibrate it for the bigger tires. Why not just put that money towards a tuner where you will get many more gains other than just a correct speedometer reading? Especially if you plan on getting one eventually anyways.
As far as wheels go, you might as well just shell out the money now to get them...as far as it being a "good idea" is your call. It would obviously be easier to get them with your tires so you can get them mounted, balanced, have the alignment done, etc. all at the same time just so you get it over with - but in the end, that one is your call.
As far as wheels go, you might as well just shell out the money now to get them...as far as it being a "good idea" is your call. It would obviously be easier to get them with your tires so you can get them mounted, balanced, have the alignment done, etc. all at the same time just so you get it over with - but in the end, that one is your call.
#12
Alright so the tuner is sounded better and better by the minute. Time to go over to the V6 forum and find the best one.
Some body please explain to me wheels!! I don't understand the offset, backspacing, etc. I know 6 x whatever is for the lugs but thats it.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...diameter/17-in
These are the style wheels I was looking at. I just need someone to explain what all these measurements are in the side bar. And this is Wheels for Dummies here so nothing fancy please.
Some body please explain to me wheels!! I don't understand the offset, backspacing, etc. I know 6 x whatever is for the lugs but thats it.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...diameter/17-in
These are the style wheels I was looking at. I just need someone to explain what all these measurements are in the side bar. And this is Wheels for Dummies here so nothing fancy please.
#13
offset and backspacing are two ways of talking about the same thing. if you have a 0 offset (which is fairly aggressive) the spokes of the wheel/where the wheel meets the hub is in the exact center of the wheel as far as inside-outside goes. with a high offset (like +45) the spokes move away from the vehicle and are towards the outside of the rim. with a low offset (like -25) the spokes move towards the vehicle and the inside of the rim. rims with lots of "dish" have low offsets which pushes the wheel out and makes it stick outside the fender. most stock wheels have high offsets in the +45 range. backspacing is how much space there is from the inside of the wheel to where the spokes are/where it bolts up. essentially the same thing, just talking about it differently
http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator
play around with that and it will give you a better idea of what im saying
http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator
play around with that and it will give you a better idea of what im saying
#14
offset and backspacing are two ways of talking about the same thing. if you have a 0 offset (which is fairly aggressive) the spokes of the wheel/where the wheel meets the hub is in the exact center of the wheel as far as inside-outside goes. with a high offset (like +45) the spokes move away from the vehicle and are towards the outside of the rim. with a low offset (like -25) the spokes move towards the vehicle and the inside of the rim. rims with lots of "dish" have low offsets which pushes the wheel out and makes it stick outside the fender. most stock wheels have high offsets in the +45 range. backspacing is how much space there is from the inside of the wheel to where the spokes are/where it bolts up. essentially the same thing, just talking about it differently
http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator
play around with that and it will give you a better idea of what im saying
http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator
play around with that and it will give you a better idea of what im saying