09 brakes spongy
#1
09 brakes spongy
Ask dealer to check brakes (pedal ) feel. It does not have a full pedal feel at first push or pump, it needs a second pump to make it feel full or correct and to have the, in my opinion correct braking or stopping feel. The lack of the pedal is very bad at highway speeds or if you have to brake abruptly or fast. Just feels weak and you have to press much harder than should be needed. Been this way for a while now, but since I was going to dealer anyway figured get it checked.
Well of course they did not feel any issue with brakes. May follow up when I go back for the back ordered parts. Mentioned may have warped rotors...
Saw thread on 2008 and older trucks with rod to adjust but someone said not on 09 and newer trucks. Really sounded like that was my issue too.
Any suggestions? Tx
Well of course they did not feel any issue with brakes. May follow up when I go back for the back ordered parts. Mentioned may have warped rotors...
Saw thread on 2008 and older trucks with rod to adjust but someone said not on 09 and newer trucks. Really sounded like that was my issue too.
Any suggestions? Tx
#2
Do you have to press it harder or do you have to press it further down?
Because you call it "spongy" which means its a soft pedal and you are getting long travel on the brake pedal.
But then you describe it as needing "to press much harder than should be needed". This means its a hard pedal situation where you are getting very little travel but you need to push hard to get stopping force.
These 2 are in conflict with each other. And they have different potential causes.
Assuming you mean that the pedal is harder to push, and it takes significant pedal effort to get braking force... I would investigate the vacuum supply to the booster. If you have a leak that is causing low vacuum levels in the booster then you will have to push much harder to get your braking force.
Because you call it "spongy" which means its a soft pedal and you are getting long travel on the brake pedal.
But then you describe it as needing "to press much harder than should be needed". This means its a hard pedal situation where you are getting very little travel but you need to push hard to get stopping force.
These 2 are in conflict with each other. And they have different potential causes.
Assuming you mean that the pedal is harder to push, and it takes significant pedal effort to get braking force... I would investigate the vacuum supply to the booster. If you have a leak that is causing low vacuum levels in the booster then you will have to push much harder to get your braking force.
#3
Sorry for being confusing. It is soft and has too much travel. Others mentioned a double pump to get a full pedal feel. It Should and did have a better feel and response. When slow down normally you do not notice because I usually tap brake and apply again or just slowly depress. But if you have to hit them hard for an unexpected reason you notice real QUICK it
is not grabbing or slowing you down as quickly as it should and are pushing further on pedal.
Does not feel like a pad issue. That is why I looked at the other post about that rod on master cylinder.
is not grabbing or slowing you down as quickly as it should and are pushing further on pedal.
Does not feel like a pad issue. That is why I looked at the other post about that rod on master cylinder.
#4
ok
if it were my truck, I would do the following
- replace all flex lines
- bleed the entire system.
You could try just bleeding, but if that doesn't work then you should replace the flex lines... which would require bleeding again. If it were my I would just do the flex lines first.
I would not advise adjusting your booster output rod... there is too much of a risk in getting dragging brakes or causing a problem due to the interaction of the master cylinder with the traction control system. Trust me on this - I am a senior engineer working on master cylinders...
Plus - if it were the booster output rod then why did it get worse from when you bought it? It is not going to change. Not to mention that the people that claim the pedal is 10 times better have yet to explain how adjusting the output rod by 0.5 mm takes out "inches" of pedal travel. (BTW - the answer to that question is that they are trapping pressure at all times, just not enough to drag their brakes under normal conditions).
Perhaps I am rambling now. But you can hopefully see that I am serious about not adjusting your booster output rod.
if it were my truck, I would do the following
- replace all flex lines
- bleed the entire system.
You could try just bleeding, but if that doesn't work then you should replace the flex lines... which would require bleeding again. If it were my I would just do the flex lines first.
I would not advise adjusting your booster output rod... there is too much of a risk in getting dragging brakes or causing a problem due to the interaction of the master cylinder with the traction control system. Trust me on this - I am a senior engineer working on master cylinders...
Plus - if it were the booster output rod then why did it get worse from when you bought it? It is not going to change. Not to mention that the people that claim the pedal is 10 times better have yet to explain how adjusting the output rod by 0.5 mm takes out "inches" of pedal travel. (BTW - the answer to that question is that they are trapping pressure at all times, just not enough to drag their brakes under normal conditions).
Perhaps I am rambling now. But you can hopefully see that I am serious about not adjusting your booster output rod.