Winter traction

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Old 12-01-2001, 08:49 PM
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Winter traction

Has anyone had particularly good or bad luck using tire chains/cables on their truck?

My '01 SCab 4x2 Sport came with P275-60R17 tires on aluminum wheels. The owner's manual says use SAE S class chains only and that aluminum wheels "may chip" when using chains.

One chain manufacturer says don't use cables with a M+S tire (as are the BFG Long Trails the truck came with). The reason is that the cable slips into the wide tread gaps and so fails to add much traction.

Security Chain Co makes a "Z" pattern "cable-chain" that it says meets S class requirements and will work on the F-150 with 275-60R17 tires.

I'd like to hear any member's experiences, good or bad, and in particular if anyone has used cables/chains with aluminum wheels.
 
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Old 12-01-2001, 11:59 PM
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I wouldn't put chains on my nice wheels. Better get some junker rims for chains to switch back and forth if you have to.
 
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Old 12-02-2001, 12:09 AM
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I have one question why fart around with chains and extra rims and so on, just get a pair of snow tires or off road tires on some POS steel rims and be done with it. If snow tires can't get you where you need to go its best to stay home and not risk yourself or that beutiful truck!
 
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Old 12-02-2001, 04:09 PM
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Why chains

Thanks for the comments.

I usually drive So Cal to Denver and back during the Christmas holidays, and sometimes run into chain law situations. With M+S tires you can continue without traction devices at the first level of the chain law, but at the next level, on a 4x2 you have to put on traction devices, and in a 4x4 you don't have to have them mounted but you must have them in the vehicle with you.

This doesn't happen too often, I was mainly concerned with getting into a surprise situation at altitude on I-70 or thereabouts where my choices would be pull over and park or put on chains/cables. Chain law gets triggered on I-70 several times each year it seems.

Seems like a lot of hassle to do a full snowtire/steel rim setup for one trip a year, but as you say, why chew up the nice 10 spoke aluminum wheels.

Think I'll put a few hundred pounds of gravel or rock over the rear axle and hope for the best with the BFG Longtrails. I have the 3.55 LSD so maybe a little help there. But I can't imagine those fat 60 series tires are any good on slick surfaces. May still get some chains but only plan on using them in an emergency.
 
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Old 12-04-2001, 09:53 AM
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Re: Why chains

Originally posted by menchar
Thanks for the comments.

I usually drive So Cal to Denver and back during the Christmas holidays, and sometimes run into chain law situations. With M+S tires you can continue without traction devices at the first level of the chain law, but at the next level, on a 4x2 you have to put on traction devices, and in a 4x4 you don't have to have them mounted but you must have them in the vehicle with you.

This doesn't happen too often, I was mainly concerned with getting into a surprise situation at altitude on I-70 or thereabouts where my choices would be pull over and park or put on chains/cables. Chain law gets triggered on I-70 several times each year it seems.

Seems like a lot of hassle to do a full snowtire/steel rim setup for one trip a year, but as you say, why chew up the nice 10 spoke aluminum wheels.


Hi again. I've been thinking, instead of a full blow chain settup, they make what I call temperary chains. They have that tow strap looking material that makes contact with your wheels, so they might be a little easy on your wheels. They will get you through those sticky situations around Vail, Breckenridge, and throught the Eisenhower Tunnel.

Think I'll put a few hundred pounds of gravel or rock over the rear axle and hope for the best with the BFG Longtrails. I have the 3.55 LSD so maybe a little help there. But I can't imagine those fat 60 series tires are any good on slick surfaces. May still get some chains but only plan on using them in an emergency.
 



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