I attempted to do this today, but got stuck at the rotor removal..... I read the HOW TO ARTICLE about the front brake repair, but my situation seems way different. The rotor seems to be pressed on or some crap. Maybe its because mine is a 2wd and not a 4wd model? Who knows....id like help!

I went ahead and put my new brake pads on, seeing that the OE rotors seems OK, but just for future reference, id like to know this answer to this!?!!!?

Thanks,
Tony

 

if you are gonna replace the rotors you can use my favorite method for removal. put on a lugnut for safety purposes and beat the rotor with a 40 ounce hammer until it comes off. works every time then put some anti seize on the inner ring of the new rotor to make it easier next time.

 

A lot of people with 4WD have to beat their rotors off the hubs because they get rusted on so tightly. I wouldnt do this on a 2WD vehicle though cuz they are held on differently than on a 4WD.

Did you remove the grease cup, cotter pin, nut retainer, nut, and outer wheel bearing first?

 

Ahh! See, thats what i was looking for! I didnt remove ANY of that, i had no idea how to. I guess i need a Haynes manual or something.

How doi get all that stuff off, i didnt notice any hardware around that area? Do i just hit the grease cup and it comes off? Walk me through that, if you dont mind?

Tony

 

Just replaced my rotors and pads on 97 F150XLT 2WD. Pull off the grease cap (I used a slotted screwdriver and tapped it into the spot where the base of the grease cap meets the rotor surface). Once the cap is off, remove the cotter pin, then the nut will come off. The simply pull on the rotor, and it should pop off. and the outer wheel bearing will come out also. Once the rotor is off the spindle, the inside wheel bearing can be removed by first prying out the grease seal that holds it in. I would repack the bearings for sure, and use a new grease seal. When you reinstall, be sure not to tighten the nut too much. The manual I have says to use a torque wrench, and tighten to 30 ft/lbs as you slowly spin the rotor. Then back off about a 1/4 turn, and use the cotter pin to lock the nut in that position. Good luck!

 

Man, thats excellent! Thank you! I was leary about that grease cap....didnt know if i should be prying on it, or have some special tool to use on it.

You make it sound so easy, but i bet theres some "bitchin an' complainin' " that occurs during the process.

Again thank you,
Tony

 

slfaco....

Are you absolutely positive it is only supposed to be 30ft/lbs?

Most vehicles have upwards of 100ft/lbs.

Can anyone else confirm that number?
I need to replace my front hubs on my Lightning (same situation w/ the hub/rotors).


-Mark

 

The number is correct. If you tighten that nut too much, the wheel won't turn. The cotter pin and nut crown keep the nut from loosening.

 

off easier than it goes on...tip; take a socket the same diameter as the ring on the cap(11/4"?) and seat the cap with the socket and a hammer