New rotors on '99 F150 ?
#1
New rotors on '99 F150 ?
I recently took my truck into a neighborhood STS shop to replace a rim I had damaged. While the truck was in there I figured I would have the front brakes done. I knew they were about due and the truck has just under 37K miles on it. The service manager called and said my brakes needed to be done and recommended replacing the rotors. I knew I had not cut into them and asked why they thought I should replace them at $200! They told me the rotors were pitted really bad with rust from the inside out and that they usually recommend replacing the factory rotors on Ford trucks for this reason. I argued a little that I knew the pads were not totally worn into the rotors. They said they could try and cut them but that I would probably have grinding and noise. I feel that I got suckered into a premature additional $200 bill cause STS didn't want to cut the rotors. Overall I am rather rough on my brakes (i.e. 5.4L) and feel better knowing I have new rotors and pads on the front. Is this a load of bull on their part or could a 3 year old truck with 37K miles need new rotors? I was annoyed at hitting the concrete in the road and having to pay $235 for a new chrome 17" rim at the time and just went for the recommended work that they did. (total bill $664)
Last edited by crb69z; 08-16-2002 at 06:21 AM.
#2
Ford factory brakes
I know it's obvious that the rotors were replaced somewhat pre-maturely. The reason I posted this thread was to see the reaction and opinions of Ford truck owners and enthusiasts on the remark made by the service manager. She said that most Ford trucks such as Explorer's, F150's, etc. have a problem with the factory installed rotors. They usually replace them when folks come in for brakes. I took their word for it and went with the suggestion. ANY Opinions Here? I work on my own truck all the time, I just don't do my own brakes. I always trusted the mechanics when it came to brakes. As far as any mechanical work, I would go directly to the dealer if I couldn't do it myself. But for a rim replacement and brake job I opted for the quicker appointment at the STS down the street.
#3
You got snookered!
Crb69:
I have a '99 supercab 5.4 with 37K miles on it and I definitely do not baby it. I just replaced my front pads yesterday with Raybestos ceramics. It took about 1.5 hrs because I took my time since this was the first time I had the front wheels off. The pads still had about 1/8th inch left and the wear device was not contacting the rotor yet. The rotors were excellent...there was no rust pitting and the area where the pads made contact was as smooth as a baby's butt. There was no need to even have the rotors machined or resurfaced, let alone have them replaced.
I think your service guy made some money off you. I think you got taken for a ride, IMHO, of course. Next time do it yourself and save some money. It's very easy to do. The Raybestos kit contained new pads, 6 new clips and 4 shims for the back of the pads...excellent product.
I have a '99 supercab 5.4 with 37K miles on it and I definitely do not baby it. I just replaced my front pads yesterday with Raybestos ceramics. It took about 1.5 hrs because I took my time since this was the first time I had the front wheels off. The pads still had about 1/8th inch left and the wear device was not contacting the rotor yet. The rotors were excellent...there was no rust pitting and the area where the pads made contact was as smooth as a baby's butt. There was no need to even have the rotors machined or resurfaced, let alone have them replaced.
I think your service guy made some money off you. I think you got taken for a ride, IMHO, of course. Next time do it yourself and save some money. It's very easy to do. The Raybestos kit contained new pads, 6 new clips and 4 shims for the back of the pads...excellent product.
#4
After reading your post a few hours ago, wifie and I yanked the front wheels and did an inspection. At 41K, the remaining pads are as thick as the metal backing plate -- and the rotors are falling apart with flaking rust.
I used a brass hammer and broke off all of the radial rust and putty-knifed off the ridges.
It looks like it will go to 80K at this point.
Later this week, I'll look at the rear pads and shoes.
I used a brass hammer and broke off all of the radial rust and putty-knifed off the ridges.
It looks like it will go to 80K at this point.
Later this week, I'll look at the rear pads and shoes.
#5
Rotated tires this weekend and checked the brakes/rotors. 99 F150 4x4, 4.6L. At 49,000 brakes look great, even wear, should go another 10,000+. The front rotors are in excellent shape have no pitting or ridges of any kind, even on the edge.
Ford is not known for good stock rotors, and I have kept a close eye on them. I always do my own brakes. The last two rotors I had turned, many years ago, warped, and needed replaceing after 8,000 miles. I don't have rotors turned any more, just replace pads before rotor becomes damaged. If a rotor becomes scored, or severely pitted, warped, just replace the damaged rotor.
Ford is not known for good stock rotors, and I have kept a close eye on them. I always do my own brakes. The last two rotors I had turned, many years ago, warped, and needed replaceing after 8,000 miles. I don't have rotors turned any more, just replace pads before rotor becomes damaged. If a rotor becomes scored, or severely pitted, warped, just replace the damaged rotor.
#6
Replaced my front pads yesterday, 68,000 miles. Rotors look good, didn't even have them turned. I hate to say this, but shops will rip you off. They will show you that the rotors are flaking rust, I had apretty good pile after doing my brakes yesterday. It's normal and is of no concern. I don't think you needed rotors at all, get you a Chilton repair manual on your truck and try to do as much as you can yourself. It will save you a ton of money and you will feel good knowing it was done because it needed to be and it was done right.
#7
I have nothing but front rotor problems with my truck, mostly warping. I am on my 3rd set of rotors all installed under warranty.
But I have had great performance out of the pads and rotors for that matter (except warping of course)
I am a firm believer that you can change your pads without replacing the rotors BUT you must re-surface them some how, either turning or sanding. Because if you don't and you put new pads on smooth glassy rotors your new pads will glaze over prematurely and your stopping performance will suffer.
my .02
peace-
But I have had great performance out of the pads and rotors for that matter (except warping of course)
I am a firm believer that you can change your pads without replacing the rotors BUT you must re-surface them some how, either turning or sanding. Because if you don't and you put new pads on smooth glassy rotors your new pads will glaze over prematurely and your stopping performance will suffer.
my .02
peace-
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#8
Originally posted by hcmq
"...BUT you must re-surface them some how, either turning or sanding. Because if you don't and you put new pads on smooth glassy rotors your new pads will glaze over prematurely and your stopping performance will suffer..."
"...BUT you must re-surface them some how, either turning or sanding. Because if you don't and you put new pads on smooth glassy rotors your new pads will glaze over prematurely and your stopping performance will suffer..."
My preference is material over finish any day -- as it is material that gives you the ability to disipate heat.
#9
I just brought mine in for brakes after finding out the hard way I was about a month late in doing it. They got to where they didn't feel right and this weekend (towing the boat 3 times from short 15 mile trips to a 160 mile round trip) and heard the "grind". As soon as I heard it I knew I pushed it too far.
So off to the "Ford Dealer" to have them do the brakes. I just turned 45k miles and the brakes have always been great. I am not at all easy on them and am surprised they lasted this long, and towing 7000-7500# at that!
I expected to get a call telling me the front left rotor was shot (I felt it and it wasn't good) but to my surprise, they were able to turn it and keep in well within tolerance.
They did both front and rear brakes (whole shabang) and they are great! Stop clean and firm and straight as ever. AND, I didn't get shafted. Great dealer experience for the first time having a dealer do any work like that.
So off to the "Ford Dealer" to have them do the brakes. I just turned 45k miles and the brakes have always been great. I am not at all easy on them and am surprised they lasted this long, and towing 7000-7500# at that!
I expected to get a call telling me the front left rotor was shot (I felt it and it wasn't good) but to my surprise, they were able to turn it and keep in well within tolerance.
They did both front and rear brakes (whole shabang) and they are great! Stop clean and firm and straight as ever. AND, I didn't get shafted. Great dealer experience for the first time having a dealer do any work like that.
#10
Y2k you said you would "Re-use" the rotors/drums. I to believe that it is fine to re-use the rotors/drums. However in my experience (Not scientific at all!) I have seen glazed, cracked pads, hard pedal feel, & percieved decreased performance when there wasn't some sort of new surface put on the rotors/drums before new pads/shoes were applied.
Anyway, stay safe and enjoy!
Anyway, stay safe and enjoy!
#11
Yes, by 're-use' I meant 're-use without resurfacing'.
The initial break-in (burnish) procedure of the lining has an effect upon glazing/cracking of the lining material - where glazing/cracking is often evidence of overuse/insufficient burnish.
By resurfacing ('turning') the rotors/drums at the time of pad/shoe change, the additional grabbiness of the rough surface of the rotor/drum masks the initial innefectiveness of the pad/shoe.
These become moot points when the pads/shoes become properly broken in (burnished) -- where the initial innefectiveness of the pads/shoes which was masked by the initial grabbiness of the rotors/drums is replaced by the normal effectiveness of the pads/shoes against shiny rotors/drums.
The initial break-in (burnish) procedure of the lining has an effect upon glazing/cracking of the lining material - where glazing/cracking is often evidence of overuse/insufficient burnish.
By resurfacing ('turning') the rotors/drums at the time of pad/shoe change, the additional grabbiness of the rough surface of the rotor/drum masks the initial innefectiveness of the pad/shoe.
These become moot points when the pads/shoes become properly broken in (burnished) -- where the initial innefectiveness of the pads/shoes which was masked by the initial grabbiness of the rotors/drums is replaced by the normal effectiveness of the pads/shoes against shiny rotors/drums.
#13
Originally posted by svtoby150
hellofa deal for the good experience with the dealer.....wish it was always like that.
hellofa deal for the good experience with the dealer.....wish it was always like that.
Low-and-behold, they did a good job and only smiled when I told them about the chip.
You know where I'm going if I need service again. Or when/if I decide to go for it on a new Excursion or SD. I'm chomping at the bit to take a new PSD and strap on a Banks Power Pack!